Sunny And Warm - This Is Ireland??

May 20, 2010

Today was a splendid, sunny and warm Irish day, unusually so and may it continue to be so. Temperatures were way above normal, approaching 80 degrees (normal high is 59 at this time of year!) - with a hint of cool breeze that kept things comfortable - perfect. Perfect, but for my cold which finally blossomed into a sneezy-runny-coughy and depressing full-blowner.

Ed, good friend that he is, insisted that I stay in bed after breakfast, which I did and slept, catching up from the jet lag, for three more hours. After my nap we walked to town where we found a cafe with wi-fi, did some email and blogging and took a little walk around Main Street. I loved the way the village is laid out with tiny lanes branching off from the main thoroughfares. The storefronts, old and new, are painted in bright colors that give these towns their quaint appearances.

The Countess House, our lodging for the next few days. (Click on any photo to see it larger).

Emailing at a cafe in town.

John M. Reidy at 4 Main Street, beautiful old store - still going strong.

The inside of John M. Reidy's store.

Buskers (street performers) are an old Irish tradition. This is Kevin, a charming fellow and  a one-man-band , playing for us on Main Street.

We set off on a hike in Killarney National Park. Ed had been there already, scoping it as I slept back at the inn. But he didn't prepare me for what I was about to see.

Killarney is a small town with a year-round population of only 7,000. Of course, during the summer the population swells to overflowing - it's Ireland's number one tourist destination (think Ring of Kerry - and for good reason: the spectacular beauty of its natural surroundings. Mountains, lakes, forests, ocean. The Park is right on the edge of town - from the center of town you can walk right into it through a gate and then...and then you're transported to another world: fabulous beauty in an almost wilderness setting. Paved or hard-packed paths take you through vast meadows and emerald glens to the lakes which are the crown jewels of the park. This was the castle/fortress of one of pre-nation of Ireland's tribes and clans but then, as now, location,location, location. We were on the path to Ross Castle. Ross means rocks that lead to water and that's where Mr. McDonahugh, a midevil chieftain of the early 1400's built his castle - perched on the shore of Middle Lake, one of
Killarney's three lakes.

The entrance to Killarney National Park. A world apart from the hustle and bustle just outside.

The splendor of Killarney National Park.

Ross Castle - breathtaking.

Ross Castle viewed from the lake side.

We sat and took in the beauty of the ruins and its setting and then, my cold getting me down again, walked a couple of miles back to the hotel to prepare for dinner.The paths are well-used by bikers, joggers, lovers strolling, dog-walkers and all manner of people enjoying the beauty of this wonderful place. I made a mental note of how well the park is maintained. It's been designated a U.N. ecological site and the nation must take great pride in it - it shows.

I'm the foodie of the two on this trip so Ed asked me to pick a place and I checked my guide book from my 1998 trip. I picked a place at 40 New Street, Dingles seafood restaurant - and we took a walk looking, in vain, for it. The years, and perhaps the recession/depression, had taken its toll on Dingles and it was nowhere to be found. But the walk was not for naught: exploring New Street and the narrow lanes that branched off from it with houses illuminated in late afternoon light was rewarding in itself.

Walking in search of a restaurant that no longer existed, I loved the beautiful painted storefronts and buildings on New Street. How "new"  was New Street I wondered.

He ain't from New York. An Irish gent out for an evening walk on New Street.

One of many lanes that run off the main roads with its pretty houses illuminated by a late-day sun.

So we walked back and passed the Danny Mann Tavern. A excited buzz emanated from this place and the menu looked decent enough. It was crowded with tourists (like us). Live music serenaded us with some Irish tunes and a fiddle and guitar. I had salmon which was quite nice. Ed had a cottage pie: An Irish dish sort of like shepherd's pie but with cheese - I liked it; he, not.

Dinner at the Danny Mann Lounge with live music and a "glass" (a.k.a. "a ½ pint") of Smithwick beer.

A guitar a fiddle and thou ... that'll put joy in your heart.

Walking back to the hotel for night: a picture of the lovely Plaza Hotel.

After dinner, Ed stopped at the Grand, a pub that has nightly traditional music. But I had had enough and walked back to the hotel to call it a day. Tomorrow I think I'll just hang out - no exertion. This cold must be over before the ride begins on Sunday - two days remaining. Rest and fluid. Rest and fluid.

See you again soon.  - Matt

For all of today's pictures, go here.