How Fast A Week Goes - Our Last Day Cycling In Cork & Kerry

Friday, May 28, 2010

Press PLAY to hear Dermot O'Brien sing Kevin Barry - a song memorializing a young Irish patriot and revolutionary who fought and died for Ireland's freedom.

We started out of Killarney town on Sunday and now we were heading back after bicycling about 150 miles - an average of 30 miles each day, some more, some less. But this last day turned out to be the longest ride but also the most beautiful I think. It certainly was very tough and when I finished and rode to our B&B, the Countess House, I lay down on my bed and fell asleep in about 10 seconds.

We started out from our lovely hotel in the Gougane Barra valley at about 9:30. Most of the group began by following the turn sheet. Jim, Ed and I, however, were off on a pre-ride ride (masochists, us). Colm had highly recommended we take a quick 5k ride (about 3 miles) on a loop that ran up a canyon behind the hotel. The hotel was adjacent to a state forest and the loop ride took us through a breathtaking pine forest with steep cliffs all around us.

Before we started out, we posed for a final group shot. Unfortunately, Bryony was missing in action. Remember to click on any photo to see it larger.

That's what they say. Sign on the side of the hotel bar. 

Sheep in the hotel's back yard. "Yo! Ewe talking to me?"

Believe it or not this is a thatched roof public toilet - it won an award for "Ireland's top toilet."

The award plaque. And in New York we don't even have public toilets, let alone one with a thatched roof, let alone one that wins the prestigious best toilet award.

Our pre-ride took us on a loop up a canyon filled with towering pines and lined with steep, rugged cliffs.

Now we guys were ready to start the actual day's ride and as I said it was a beautiful but tough one. Most of the day's ride was on one of those Irish roads that's hardly a road. Paved, yes - but scarcely wide enough for a car to drive down, yet it's two ways! Often, there are patches of grass growing in the middle. Fortunately, no cars seemed to use this road - we had no idea who did use it; maybe an occasional farmer on the way home. We saw maybe one or two cars on it during several hours of cycling. It traversed gorgeous scenery, the views of which seemed to change with every turn in the road. And it went upward and then upward for miles and miles. My heart raced and my lungs gasped for air and once or twice I had to dismount and push the bike up an extremely vertical section of the road. I figured there was no sense in killing myself (literally). The day was made still tougher in that the one pub we would pass (at around mile 24) - Ireland's highest pub - was not yet open for food (too early in the season) so there was no stopping for lunch as we had on every other day. That always gave us a chance to rest and regain our stamina and strength. Not today - rest would have to wait for our return to Killarney and the B&B.

This road is no wider than the width of a small car. But we hardly saw more than one or two cars on this part of the ride that went on (and up) for many miles.

Sheep everywhere. 

The road took us through breathtaking scenery.

We passed a giant wind farm that stretched on for miles with dozens and dozens of towering windmills.

Here I am at Ireland's highest pub. Unfortunately, they were not serving any food - and I was hungry. I was also cold - it was cloudy and cool. I was also tired, very tired but we still had another 24 miles to go to Killarney.


It's very amazing, I thought, that you can bike on these tiny roads through vast tracts of wilderness with a house, perhaps, every few miles, and then all of a sudden come out on a main road just outside of the bustling town of Killarney. Now, after all this cycling, we were just a mile or so from the end of our ride. I found, somewhere inside me, a final burst of energy, and pedalled quickly, with great determination, into town and to our B&B. Collapsing onto my bed, I fell asleep immediately. But not for long - we had one last dinner where we would make our farewells to the wonderful group of cycling comrades that had shared our trip for the last week. We exchanged contact information, thanked our friend and guide, Colm, and returned to the inn for a peaceful and very rewarding long night of sleep.

Our last and farewell dinner at the Bricin restaurant in Killarney. What a great time and a great group of people - who became good friends in a week's time. 

Tomorrow, Saturday, Ed and I would pick up our rental car and head for the Dingle Pensinsula and onwards to Country Clare and the Burren. That's where you can pick up the story again - and by the time you read that post  we'll be flying back to New York. See you on the bike path!   - Matt

To see all of today's photos just CLICK HERE.

Two Day Left - We Bike From Glengarriff To Gougane Barra

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Press PLAY to hear The Wild Mountain Thyme sung by Liam Clancy.



If you asked me which of the days on our tour I enjoyed the most and which route took us through the most exciting and beautiful area of West Cork and Kerry, I’d be hard put to come up with an answer. Today, the next to last of our cycling journey took us from Glengarriff, along the coast of Bantry Bay to the bustling town of Bantry where we stopped for lunch. We then doubled back about 5 miles, out of Bantry, and continued on our way to our destination, the Gougane Barra valley and the hotel of the same name. It was a lovely ride, a little challenging (but by this time we’re old pros at challenges) and, again, strikingly beautiful, particularly the last 10 miles which took us up and over the Pass of Keimaneigh and then down a long descent to our hotel. There’s no town here - just the hotel, which is situated on breathtaking Gugane Barra lake with a backdrop of mountains. Ed thought the hotel was reminiscent of an old borsht belt hotel - it is old and not as posh as last night’s but very comfortable, clean and well maintained ... and the location was unmatched by any place we’ve been in so far.

Leaving Glengarriff we rode along Bantry Bay. Remember - click on any photo to see it larger.

Irish homes - tidy, neat and clean.

Ed with a view of Bantry Bay. He's wearing his new cycling jersey - very visible.

Wild flowers, my bike and Bantry Bay.

Wow! We turned a bend in the road and came across a 17th century ruins with a new house built in its front moat, er yard.


We had ridden about two hours and were now taking a 5-miles detour into Bantry town. Another port town, this was less of a tourist haven and more of a real, functioning town with lots of locals walking the streets and shopping the shops. We liked that and the opportunity it afforded to see people going about their daily business. Bantry is another big port and fishing town and was home to Theobald Wolfe Tone, the father of Irish Republicanism - a great patriot, nationalist and revolutionary.  Tone, who lived from 1763 to 1798, wrote --

"To unite the whole people of Ireland, to abolish the memory of all past dissensions and to substitute the common name of Irishman in place of denominations of Protestant, Catholic and Dissenter."

Arriving in Bantry town, I pose with the weclome sign.

Bantry school kids out for lunch walking past the central square.

A statue of Theobald Wolfe Tone, the father of the independence struggle. 

Coen's pharmacy on the square. 

Helen and Bryony enjoying a spot of tea in Bantry town square.


We took a quick walk around, picked up some lunch to go and biked out of town to Bantry House for a picnic. Then we retraced our route about 5 miles to continue on our way to Gougane Barra.

Bantryites (?) walking past the post office.

Another pretty house on the outskirts of Bantry.


Ever since Castletownbere we had been tracing the route taken by Donal Cam O'Sullivan Beare and his followers after the British had demolished his castle at Dunboy, killing all of its defenders. O'Sullivan Beare set off on a withering march through the mountains with 1000 soldiers and supporters and provisions.  including 1000 sheep. He intended to unite with other freedom fighters at Leitrim. By the time he reached there, his force had dwindled to 35, the rest lost to hunger, exposure and attacks. Some of those left behind settled in the hills and valleys and those descendents continue to inhabit the area to this day.

In the middle of the countryside, the Carriganass Castle. This was the ancestral home of the O'Sullivan Beare clan. Our bike ride had been tracing the path of Donal Cam O'Sullivan Beare's flight from the British in 1602.

Wild flowers growing on a wall.


We climbed and climbed (again) and finally rode through the Pass of Keimaneigh. From there an awesome descent for several miles to our turnoff to the Gougane Barra valley and out hotel. Tired but glad to be there.

Tomorrow, Friday, our last day as we have a very tough (but always beautiful) ride of 42 miles to get back to our start in Killarney town.  See you there.  - Matt

At the top of the world. Passing through the pass.

Gougane Barra - the sign points the way.

We made it! The hotel faces this lake which is part of the state park in the Gougane Barra valley.


To see all of today's photos, CLICK HERE.

Moving Along Bantry Bay To Glengarriff

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

After a rest day in Castletownbere we started on Wednesday for a town further east on the Beara peninsula: Glengarriff. This is known for its sub-tropical flora and a beautiful botanic gardens situated on an island in Bantry Bay. The weather had turned just a bit cooler - the temperature was in the mid 50's as we started out in the morning and reached into the low 60's. But a strong breeze kept things cool and we cycled with windbreakers for most of the ride. Taking the coast road all the way, the panorama of Bantry Bay and, again, rugged mountains kept me repeating - "it's so beautiful." With a population of only 4.5 million in all of the republic, Ireland is sparsely inhabited and it amazed me that vast areas of spectacular seacoast had so few homes. But the ones we saw were perched with mountain as backdrop and broad views of the sea. The houses are lovely - most looked well-cared for and give a very neat appearance.

After having spent a rest day (two nights) in Castletownbere (left blue circle) we biked along the coast to the Glengarriff (center blue). On Thursday we'll bike to Gougane Barra (right circle). To see this map larger, just click it.

The ride today was only about 25 miles but there was one really long hill - not a terribly steep grade but a long one - it seemed to go on forever. With a stop half way for shopping at an Irish crafts store (touted as one of the best in Ireland), we coasted into Glengarriff at about one o'clock just in time for lunch. This was the smallest town we'd been in yet - one street and a short one at that - lined with some shops, restaurants, pubs and a couple of hotels. A ferry in the middle of town left for the island with its botanic garden which we skipped in favor of a hike on the shore and through some woods.

A group shot before we set off from Castletownbere on Wednesday morning. Destination: Glengarriff, 22 miles away. Click on any photo to see it larger.

On the coast road: a cemetery with rugged mountains as a backdrop.

You talking to me?

Coming downhill toward me -- Janice, then Ed, then Jim.

Speeding down a long hill into Glengarriff and lunch. Remember this - in order to go down, we had to go up first!

Helen enjoys the pause that refreshes. We've reached our destination, Glengarriff and sit out in the sun at a pub.

Lunch was grand: Irish smoked salmon on brown bread and the most wonderful chowder. And to wash it all down, a pint of Guinness stout.


Dinner was at the pub in the hotel we were staying at: the Glengarriff Park Hotel. I went for a walk after dinner to admire the full moon filling the Irish sky

Three lovely lassies: Bryony, Janice and Helen at dinner in the hotel bar.

Fun in Glengarrif's Murphy's pub.

Even though there weren't many tourists in town this early in the season, this place was jumping: Murphy's pub.


Tomorrow we'll leave for Googane Barra and then our final trip on Friday back to Killarney. The end is in sight and I'm getting sad already.

Ciao! - Matteo

To see all of today's photos just CLICK HERE.

If It's Tuesday, It Must Be A Day Of Rest

May 25, 2010

On Monday, our second day of cycling  we rode from Kenmare to the port town of Castletownbere, County Cork where we would spend two nights in the Cottage Heights B&B. Today, Tuesday, therefore, is our rest day..There was, to be sure, an available 24 mile bike ride option that could be made to the tip of the peninsular where Ireland's "only cable car" could sling you over to an island off the western tip of the Beara. Are you kidding? Twenty-four miles of biking on a rest day??!! No, we thought, rest is a good and needed thing and that's what most of us  did. The two British women were the exception. They took a ferry, right in town, over to Bere Island - just a short ride across the harbor, where they explored its hilly contours by, what else, bike. Janice and Jim, the Canadians, lazed around the B&B and then strolled about town, reallly taking it easy. Ed and I also went into town, but by bike, where we locked up our cycles and explored the village on foot. Honestly, there was not a lot to look at.The town is very small with a population of just under 700. This swells somewhat in the summer with an influx of tourists. But at this time of year it was quiet and we liked it that way. Being Ireland's largest white fish port (think of cod, hake, haddock, etc. not whitefish but white fish), the town is a real working fishing village with lots of fishing boats, a commercial fishery and other establishments of that trade. We biked to the fishery, which is set out on a pier, and took some nice pictures of the town across the way.

Sitting down for breakfast on Tuesday - our rest day. This is the dining room at the Cottage Heights B&B.  Remember you can see any photo larger by clicking on it.

Jim considers his full Irish breakfast.

The view from the patio of our B&B

Looking across from the fishery, a view of the Castletownbere harbor.

A statue to commemorate local sailors who were lost to the sea. 


We walked a few of the streets (in actuality there only are a few streets) making our way past some of the stores that lined Main Street. Then I pointed out Wiseman's dry goods shop. Was this a Jewish name? That wouldn't be so unusual in the States where Jews opened stores in practically every state and tiny towns throughout the country. But Ireland? Ed volunteered to ask the proprietor and the answer is yes. Ed Wiseman gave him a brief history of the Jews in Ireland, whose history dates to the 12th century and who have generally been well accepted there. But, regardless of that, the Jewish population is very small, measuring only 1930 in the 2006 census. We chatted for a while and then continued our exploration of the town and its environs.

I guess I'm a sucker for the colors of the  Irish village buildings.

We came across Wiseman's dry good store in Castletown. 

The two Ed's: Ed Wiseman and Ed Goldman. Two Jewish gents - one from Brooklyn, the other from Castletownbere.


Continuing our exploration, we mounted our bikes and rode out to Dunboy Castle which is where, in the early 1600's, Donal Cam O'Sullivan Baere fought against British domination. According to a Wikipedia entry "he was the last independent ruler of the O'Sullivan sept, the last O'Sullivan Beare, in the southwest of Ireland during the early seventeenth century, when the English were attempting to secure their rule over the whole island. He has been referred to as the "Last Prince of Ireland".

A beautiful field out of town near Dunboy Castle. Castletownbere, Ireland.

The gatehouse at the ancient Dunley Castle ruins. The actual castle is nothing more than moss-covered rubble, having been blasted to bits by the British in 1602 as they attempted to consolidate their rule over Ireland.


After returning to our B&B, Jim said he had bought some Irish smoked salmon, bread and cheese for a little pre-dinner snack on the patio. He added a bottle of wine and it was magic, sitting out in the sun and gazing upon the shimmering waters of Bantry Bay. It's a good life.

Pre-dinner appetizers out on the patio of our B&B. Courtesy of the very sweet Janice and Jim.


Dinner was at the Olde Bakery at the other end of town. I biked and the rest walked there. We were on the trail of the local scallop which we didn't find on a single menu in the town's many restaurants and pubs. But it was being served at the Olde Bakery. The long walk was worth it. Dinner was lovely in the upscale eatery - a memorable evening out on the town.

Tomorrow we head out for Glengarriff, continuing our ride eastward on the south shore of the Beara Peninsular. It'll be an easy day of cycling, morning only, and an afternoon of relaxing or walking the town. See you then.  - Matt

On the way to dinner - boats in late day light.

Late light on Main Street buildings.

Dinner was at the Olde Bakery - lovely!

It's 10 pm and still quite light in Ireland. Do you see the same moon that I do?


To see all  of today's photos just CLICK HERE.