If It's Tuesday, It Must Be A Day Of Rest

May 25, 2010

On Monday, our second day of cycling  we rode from Kenmare to the port town of Castletownbere, County Cork where we would spend two nights in the Cottage Heights B&B. Today, Tuesday, therefore, is our rest day..There was, to be sure, an available 24 mile bike ride option that could be made to the tip of the peninsular where Ireland's "only cable car" could sling you over to an island off the western tip of the Beara. Are you kidding? Twenty-four miles of biking on a rest day??!! No, we thought, rest is a good and needed thing and that's what most of us  did. The two British women were the exception. They took a ferry, right in town, over to Bere Island - just a short ride across the harbor, where they explored its hilly contours by, what else, bike. Janice and Jim, the Canadians, lazed around the B&B and then strolled about town, reallly taking it easy. Ed and I also went into town, but by bike, where we locked up our cycles and explored the village on foot. Honestly, there was not a lot to look at.The town is very small with a population of just under 700. This swells somewhat in the summer with an influx of tourists. But at this time of year it was quiet and we liked it that way. Being Ireland's largest white fish port (think of cod, hake, haddock, etc. not whitefish but white fish), the town is a real working fishing village with lots of fishing boats, a commercial fishery and other establishments of that trade. We biked to the fishery, which is set out on a pier, and took some nice pictures of the town across the way.

Sitting down for breakfast on Tuesday - our rest day. This is the dining room at the Cottage Heights B&B.  Remember you can see any photo larger by clicking on it.

Jim considers his full Irish breakfast.

The view from the patio of our B&B

Looking across from the fishery, a view of the Castletownbere harbor.

A statue to commemorate local sailors who were lost to the sea. 


We walked a few of the streets (in actuality there only are a few streets) making our way past some of the stores that lined Main Street. Then I pointed out Wiseman's dry goods shop. Was this a Jewish name? That wouldn't be so unusual in the States where Jews opened stores in practically every state and tiny towns throughout the country. But Ireland? Ed volunteered to ask the proprietor and the answer is yes. Ed Wiseman gave him a brief history of the Jews in Ireland, whose history dates to the 12th century and who have generally been well accepted there. But, regardless of that, the Jewish population is very small, measuring only 1930 in the 2006 census. We chatted for a while and then continued our exploration of the town and its environs.

I guess I'm a sucker for the colors of the  Irish village buildings.

We came across Wiseman's dry good store in Castletown. 

The two Ed's: Ed Wiseman and Ed Goldman. Two Jewish gents - one from Brooklyn, the other from Castletownbere.


Continuing our exploration, we mounted our bikes and rode out to Dunboy Castle which is where, in the early 1600's, Donal Cam O'Sullivan Baere fought against British domination. According to a Wikipedia entry "he was the last independent ruler of the O'Sullivan sept, the last O'Sullivan Beare, in the southwest of Ireland during the early seventeenth century, when the English were attempting to secure their rule over the whole island. He has been referred to as the "Last Prince of Ireland".

A beautiful field out of town near Dunboy Castle. Castletownbere, Ireland.

The gatehouse at the ancient Dunley Castle ruins. The actual castle is nothing more than moss-covered rubble, having been blasted to bits by the British in 1602 as they attempted to consolidate their rule over Ireland.


After returning to our B&B, Jim said he had bought some Irish smoked salmon, bread and cheese for a little pre-dinner snack on the patio. He added a bottle of wine and it was magic, sitting out in the sun and gazing upon the shimmering waters of Bantry Bay. It's a good life.

Pre-dinner appetizers out on the patio of our B&B. Courtesy of the very sweet Janice and Jim.


Dinner was at the Olde Bakery at the other end of town. I biked and the rest walked there. We were on the trail of the local scallop which we didn't find on a single menu in the town's many restaurants and pubs. But it was being served at the Olde Bakery. The long walk was worth it. Dinner was lovely in the upscale eatery - a memorable evening out on the town.

Tomorrow we head out for Glengarriff, continuing our ride eastward on the south shore of the Beara Peninsular. It'll be an easy day of cycling, morning only, and an afternoon of relaxing or walking the town. See you then.  - Matt

On the way to dinner - boats in late day light.

Late light on Main Street buildings.

Dinner was at the Olde Bakery - lovely!

It's 10 pm and still quite light in Ireland. Do you see the same moon that I do?


To see all  of today's photos just CLICK HERE.