Our Last Few Days In Ireland - In A Car, Not On A Bike.

Press PLAY to hear Christy Moore, 
great Irish folksinger, sing Lisdoonvarna, a town in County Clare.



Jun 3, 2010
I write this lying in bed back home in Brooklyn. It's Thursday at 4:30 pm and I've been home since Tuesday night - but jet lag hit me big time for the last few days and my body still doesn't know if it's 4:30 or 9:30 (Irish time). I haven't touched the computer since the trip. But the itch got to me and I decided I had to finish my blog - the last few days - to make it a complete saga.

On Friday night we had cycled back into our starting point: Killarney Town. A final farewell dinner to say goodbye to our biking buddies and a good night's sleep at the Countess House B&B. The next morning we picked up a rental car (a Toyota Auris) and headed out of town. Our group guide, Colm, had given us recommendations - we had intended to drive straight up to County Clore and explore the Burren (that 100-square mile mass of exposed limestone that resembles a lunar landscape but with wild flowers sprouting thorough every crack and crevice). But Colm insisted that we first drive around the Dingle Peninsula. "It's right here and you mustn't miss it." So we followed his instructions and drove a bit north and then west out onto the northernmost of Ireland's four "fingers" - the peninsulas that just out into the Atlantic from the country's southwest coast.




Click the map to see it larger


Colm told us to drive out to the tip where's there a circuit road called the Sley Head Path. (A head is a rocky, narrow promontory that juts into the sea) with fabulous views out to the Atlantic. He wasn't wrong and we were glad we had listened to him.

Out on the Dingle you can see the Ring of Kerry  (the Iveragh Peninsula) across Dingle Bay. 
>> Remember - you can click on any photo to see it larger.


Before heading out on that tip we stopped in the town of Dingle for some lunch and quick walk around.

A street scene in Dingle Town.

Young musicians from a local primary school serenading tourists in the main square in Dingle.

Narrow, twisty roads and falling rock. Yeah, great combination. But the views were great.


After circumnavigating Sley Head Path we headed back through Dingle and then up and off the peninsula and north to catch a ferry cross the River Shannon. That course took us over the Connor Pass - from there it looked like we were up in an airplane, so high up were we. The view would have been better had it not been obscured by fog and clouds. That's Ireland and the weather today was more typical than the preceding week of warm temperatures and sunny, blue skies.

Crossing the River Shannon to County Clare.


Our destination was the town of Doolin on the Clare coast. The county is known as the center of Irish traditional music and Doolin was ground zero for venues. As we drove, Ed perused the guide book for a place to stay. The recommendation, The Aran View Hotel (the rugged and wild Aran Islands are right offshore), turned out to be a good choice and we spent two nights there, using it as a base to explore Clare's towns and the other-wordly Burren.

Our hotel in Doolin - the Aran View. Lovely.

It's 9:30 pm and the sun is still up!


We tidied up a bit and had dinner at the hotel - it had a lovely dining room with a view to the sea and the offshore Arans. After dinner, we took a quick drive into town for some music at O'Connor's pub.

Two fiddles, an accordion and a harmonica - music at O'Connor's pub in Doolin - the home of traditional Irish music.

A flutist joined the other musicians.

It had been a long day of driving so we headed back to our hotel. Looking east to the Aran Islands and the Atlantic - it's 11 pm!


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Sunday, May 30th

We were up early, had breakfast at the hotel: scrambled eggs with a little castle of smoked salmon folded on top and then headed out to explore the surrounding area - that's why we had driven up to County Clare.

Just down the road was the famous Cliffs of Moher. I had been here on a previous bike ride in 1999. Back then, despite its popularity, it was not very developed: a parking lot, a dirt path out to the edge of the cliffs where, to my shock and horror, you could actually walk out to the precipice - no guard rail, wall - no nothing!

Now it had been developed into a lovely, ecologically correct, tourist site: paved paths, concessions nicely caved into the hills, public bathrooms, etc. And the edge of the cliffs was 20 feet or so beyond a protective slate wall: safety first!

Before we hit the cliffs, we came across a castle on the road. This is the view of Doonagore castle looking out to the sea. The tower castle is a uniquely Irish structure. Note that there's no entrance at ground level - defenders would pull up a ladder making it very hard for attackers to enter. One of the Aran islands are offshore.

Wild flowers frame the awesome Cliffs of Moher and the mighty Atlantic.

A nice place to stand and gawk. New walls since I was here eleven years ago.

Some things don't change: a strict warning which everyone seemed to ignore. Go figure. Click any picture to see it larger.


Our next stop on the day's exploration was, perhaps, the main attraction in County Clare: The Burren.

Here's Wikipedia's description of the Burren:

"Burren is rich with historical and archaeological sites. There are more than 90 megalithic tombs in the area, portal dolmens (including Poulnabrone Dolmen), a celtic high cross in the village of Kilfenora, and a number of ring forts.

During counter-guerilla operations in Burren in 1651-52, Edmund Ludlow stated, "(Burren) is a country where there is not enough water to drown a man, wood enough to hang one, nor earth enough to bury him...... and yet their cattle are very fat; for the grass growing in turfs of earth, of two or three foot square, that lie between the rocks, which are of limestone, is very sweet and nourishing.

The rolling hills of Burren are composed of limestone pavements with crisscrossing cracks known as "grikes", leaving isolated rocks called "clints". The region supports arctic and Mediterranean alpine plants side-by-side, due to the unusual environment. The blue flower of the Spring Gentian, an alpine plant, is used as a symbol for the area by the tourist board. Burren's many limestone cliffs, particularly the sea-cliffs at Ailladie, are popular with rock-climbers. For cavers, there are a number of charted caves in the area, notably Pollnagollum. Doolin is a popular "base camp" for cavers, and is home to one of the two main cave-rescue stores of the Irish Cave Rescue Organisation."

Welcome to The Burren, where limestone rock lies exposed and wild flowers bloom in every crevice.

The Burren - the most amazing lunar landscape on earth. Miles of limestone slabs, boulders and rocks.

On top of the topsy-turvy display created by Nature, man built his walls throughout the Burren. Why? How? When?


We finished our walk on the Burren and headed into Ballyvaughn, a quiet fishing town on Galway Bay where we had lunch at the Highland's Hotel, a lovely old inn at the center of town where the roads converge.

That's me at the signposts - Ballyvaughn, County Clare.

The dining room of the beautiful and old Highlands Hotel in Ballyvaughn.

Thoughts of Ireland as we wind up our trip - lunch at the Highland's Hotel with a glass of Guinness.

After lunch we came across Martin - a retired car mechanic. Martin is the unofficial mayor of  the village, known by all. He told us of a postcard sent to simply "Martin, Ballyvaughn, Ireland" from a friend in Scotland. It was delivered.


It was time to move on - we were headed east across Ireland, making our way inexorably to Dublin and its airport for the flight home tomorrow (Tuesday). Driving through the town of Kilfenora, on the edge of the Burren, we stopped at a tiny museum which depicted the history of Clare and an emphasis on the potato crop failure and the famine of 1841 which drove a million people to find new lives abroard. It also left another million people dead, victims of starvation and poverty - a tragic and sad tale of what happens when society turns its back on its own citizens. It was a history that we seem to be living through today as millions lose jobs and home with no helping hand to get them through the troubles.

Press the PLAY BUTTON to hear Christy Moore sing City of Chicago, a plaintive song of the displaced Irish who fled the famine for America, with memories of their former homes.

As we drove we came across the ruins of the famous Kilmacduagh Monastery dating back to the 7th century. That was long before Ireland was unified and local kings and chiefs ran their local turfs. The monastery, because of its wealth and importance, formed its own diocese in the 13th century as that new system of church organization replaced local monasteries as the center of power. Because of its importance, it was plundered over and over again. The tower provided sanctuary from the attacking hordes as its entrance was 30 feet above the ground and not easily entered. The tower at Kilmacduagh  is a prime example of that unique Irish castle. Interesting, further, is that the tower leans (like Pisa?) over one-and-a-half feet from vertical.

The ruins of Kilmacduagh Monastery. I love that you can drive down a road in Ireland and, rounding a curve, come across these ancient buildings, standing there through the eons.

The tower leans a foot-and-a-half from vertical.


Our Monday night destination was the world heritage city of Trim - just 45 minutes northwest of the Dublin airport. Trim is located on the River Boyne and its name referred to the easy fording of the brisk-running river at that point. Though it's only 40 miles from the Irish sea, it was still an early and important port as the river could be navigated by flat boats.

A fabulous castle is located at Trim - the largest restored castle in all of Ireland. Consisting of many fine buildings in addition to the castle it was once encircled by a vast protective wall and many gates that could be protected from attacking armies.

Wikipedia describes it thusly:

"The Castle was used as a centre of Norman administration for the Liberty of Meath, one of the new administrative areas of Ireland created by Henry II of England and granted to Hugh de Lacy. de Lacy took possession of it in 1172. De Lacy built a huge ringwork castle defended by a stout double palisade and external ditch on top of the hill. There may also have been further defences around the cliffs fringing the high ground. Part of a stone footed timber gatehouse lies beneath the present stone gate at the west side of the castle. The ringwork was attacked and burnt by the Irish but De Lacy immediately rebuilt it in 1173. His son Walter continued rebuilding and the castle was completed c 1204."

That such building took place in the 12th and 13th century was amazing to us and we tried to imagine what people must have thought as they came across these buildings approaching from the distance.

Not far from Trim is the site of the Battle of the Boyne - an enormously important battle in July of 1690 between between the Protestant King William who had deposed the Catholic King James (his father-in-law no less). James sought the help of the French and the Irish. The battle, won by England and King William, set the stage for the ongoing conflicts of the ensuing years and the "troubles" of 20th century.

We left Trim for Dublin and the airport. Our flight was 5pm and we had spent the last few hours getting our last taste of Ireland and its rich history. With our bike trip behind us, in time and memory, this added few days of car touring enriched our understanding of Ireland's rich and troubled past. We came away with a great appreciation for this beautiful and varied country, its people and its history.

This was a wonderful trip - it only lasted two weeks but the memory will stay forever. I thank you for coming along with us and hope you enjoyed the trip. See you back in Brooklyn.  - Matt

On our way to the town of Trim, we stopped in Loughrea for lunch at the lovely Hope's Bakery on the main drag. No tourists here (except for us). Just locals.

Street scene - Loughrea, County Galway.

Irish lads out for lunch on Loughrea's main street.

The  Cranmoor: Our B&B in Trim, county Meath.

The castle at Trim. It's the largest restored castle in Ireland. Trim is a world heritage city.

The Castle at Trim with the modern city at its side. Right on the River Boyne. What a sight this must have been, as travellers approached this from afar in midevil times.

A fabulous trip! Here's your Blogger on the Aer Lingus plane - back to Brooklyn. A trip that won't soon be forgotten. Go raibh mile maith agat! i.e. -- May you have a thousand good things or, more simply, Thank you! Thank you for travelling with us.

To view all of my last days' photos just CLICK HERE.

To see the entire Irish Bike Ride photo gallery as a SLIDE SHOW just CLICK HERE.

How Fast A Week Goes - Our Last Day Cycling In Cork & Kerry

Friday, May 28, 2010

Press PLAY to hear Dermot O'Brien sing Kevin Barry - a song memorializing a young Irish patriot and revolutionary who fought and died for Ireland's freedom.

We started out of Killarney town on Sunday and now we were heading back after bicycling about 150 miles - an average of 30 miles each day, some more, some less. But this last day turned out to be the longest ride but also the most beautiful I think. It certainly was very tough and when I finished and rode to our B&B, the Countess House, I lay down on my bed and fell asleep in about 10 seconds.

We started out from our lovely hotel in the Gougane Barra valley at about 9:30. Most of the group began by following the turn sheet. Jim, Ed and I, however, were off on a pre-ride ride (masochists, us). Colm had highly recommended we take a quick 5k ride (about 3 miles) on a loop that ran up a canyon behind the hotel. The hotel was adjacent to a state forest and the loop ride took us through a breathtaking pine forest with steep cliffs all around us.

Before we started out, we posed for a final group shot. Unfortunately, Bryony was missing in action. Remember to click on any photo to see it larger.

That's what they say. Sign on the side of the hotel bar. 

Sheep in the hotel's back yard. "Yo! Ewe talking to me?"

Believe it or not this is a thatched roof public toilet - it won an award for "Ireland's top toilet."

The award plaque. And in New York we don't even have public toilets, let alone one with a thatched roof, let alone one that wins the prestigious best toilet award.

Our pre-ride took us on a loop up a canyon filled with towering pines and lined with steep, rugged cliffs.

Now we guys were ready to start the actual day's ride and as I said it was a beautiful but tough one. Most of the day's ride was on one of those Irish roads that's hardly a road. Paved, yes - but scarcely wide enough for a car to drive down, yet it's two ways! Often, there are patches of grass growing in the middle. Fortunately, no cars seemed to use this road - we had no idea who did use it; maybe an occasional farmer on the way home. We saw maybe one or two cars on it during several hours of cycling. It traversed gorgeous scenery, the views of which seemed to change with every turn in the road. And it went upward and then upward for miles and miles. My heart raced and my lungs gasped for air and once or twice I had to dismount and push the bike up an extremely vertical section of the road. I figured there was no sense in killing myself (literally). The day was made still tougher in that the one pub we would pass (at around mile 24) - Ireland's highest pub - was not yet open for food (too early in the season) so there was no stopping for lunch as we had on every other day. That always gave us a chance to rest and regain our stamina and strength. Not today - rest would have to wait for our return to Killarney and the B&B.

This road is no wider than the width of a small car. But we hardly saw more than one or two cars on this part of the ride that went on (and up) for many miles.

Sheep everywhere. 

The road took us through breathtaking scenery.

We passed a giant wind farm that stretched on for miles with dozens and dozens of towering windmills.

Here I am at Ireland's highest pub. Unfortunately, they were not serving any food - and I was hungry. I was also cold - it was cloudy and cool. I was also tired, very tired but we still had another 24 miles to go to Killarney.


It's very amazing, I thought, that you can bike on these tiny roads through vast tracts of wilderness with a house, perhaps, every few miles, and then all of a sudden come out on a main road just outside of the bustling town of Killarney. Now, after all this cycling, we were just a mile or so from the end of our ride. I found, somewhere inside me, a final burst of energy, and pedalled quickly, with great determination, into town and to our B&B. Collapsing onto my bed, I fell asleep immediately. But not for long - we had one last dinner where we would make our farewells to the wonderful group of cycling comrades that had shared our trip for the last week. We exchanged contact information, thanked our friend and guide, Colm, and returned to the inn for a peaceful and very rewarding long night of sleep.

Our last and farewell dinner at the Bricin restaurant in Killarney. What a great time and a great group of people - who became good friends in a week's time. 

Tomorrow, Saturday, Ed and I would pick up our rental car and head for the Dingle Pensinsula and onwards to Country Clare and the Burren. That's where you can pick up the story again - and by the time you read that post  we'll be flying back to New York. See you on the bike path!   - Matt

To see all of today's photos just CLICK HERE.

Two Day Left - We Bike From Glengarriff To Gougane Barra

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Press PLAY to hear The Wild Mountain Thyme sung by Liam Clancy.



If you asked me which of the days on our tour I enjoyed the most and which route took us through the most exciting and beautiful area of West Cork and Kerry, I’d be hard put to come up with an answer. Today, the next to last of our cycling journey took us from Glengarriff, along the coast of Bantry Bay to the bustling town of Bantry where we stopped for lunch. We then doubled back about 5 miles, out of Bantry, and continued on our way to our destination, the Gougane Barra valley and the hotel of the same name. It was a lovely ride, a little challenging (but by this time we’re old pros at challenges) and, again, strikingly beautiful, particularly the last 10 miles which took us up and over the Pass of Keimaneigh and then down a long descent to our hotel. There’s no town here - just the hotel, which is situated on breathtaking Gugane Barra lake with a backdrop of mountains. Ed thought the hotel was reminiscent of an old borsht belt hotel - it is old and not as posh as last night’s but very comfortable, clean and well maintained ... and the location was unmatched by any place we’ve been in so far.

Leaving Glengarriff we rode along Bantry Bay. Remember - click on any photo to see it larger.

Irish homes - tidy, neat and clean.

Ed with a view of Bantry Bay. He's wearing his new cycling jersey - very visible.

Wild flowers, my bike and Bantry Bay.

Wow! We turned a bend in the road and came across a 17th century ruins with a new house built in its front moat, er yard.


We had ridden about two hours and were now taking a 5-miles detour into Bantry town. Another port town, this was less of a tourist haven and more of a real, functioning town with lots of locals walking the streets and shopping the shops. We liked that and the opportunity it afforded to see people going about their daily business. Bantry is another big port and fishing town and was home to Theobald Wolfe Tone, the father of Irish Republicanism - a great patriot, nationalist and revolutionary.  Tone, who lived from 1763 to 1798, wrote --

"To unite the whole people of Ireland, to abolish the memory of all past dissensions and to substitute the common name of Irishman in place of denominations of Protestant, Catholic and Dissenter."

Arriving in Bantry town, I pose with the weclome sign.

Bantry school kids out for lunch walking past the central square.

A statue of Theobald Wolfe Tone, the father of the independence struggle. 

Coen's pharmacy on the square. 

Helen and Bryony enjoying a spot of tea in Bantry town square.


We took a quick walk around, picked up some lunch to go and biked out of town to Bantry House for a picnic. Then we retraced our route about 5 miles to continue on our way to Gougane Barra.

Bantryites (?) walking past the post office.

Another pretty house on the outskirts of Bantry.


Ever since Castletownbere we had been tracing the route taken by Donal Cam O'Sullivan Beare and his followers after the British had demolished his castle at Dunboy, killing all of its defenders. O'Sullivan Beare set off on a withering march through the mountains with 1000 soldiers and supporters and provisions.  including 1000 sheep. He intended to unite with other freedom fighters at Leitrim. By the time he reached there, his force had dwindled to 35, the rest lost to hunger, exposure and attacks. Some of those left behind settled in the hills and valleys and those descendents continue to inhabit the area to this day.

In the middle of the countryside, the Carriganass Castle. This was the ancestral home of the O'Sullivan Beare clan. Our bike ride had been tracing the path of Donal Cam O'Sullivan Beare's flight from the British in 1602.

Wild flowers growing on a wall.


We climbed and climbed (again) and finally rode through the Pass of Keimaneigh. From there an awesome descent for several miles to our turnoff to the Gougane Barra valley and out hotel. Tired but glad to be there.

Tomorrow, Friday, our last day as we have a very tough (but always beautiful) ride of 42 miles to get back to our start in Killarney town.  See you there.  - Matt

At the top of the world. Passing through the pass.

Gougane Barra - the sign points the way.

We made it! The hotel faces this lake which is part of the state park in the Gougane Barra valley.


To see all of today's photos, CLICK HERE.